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Western Zambia and Northern Botswana 2005

This trip was neither easy or a holiday, it was an adventure. An experience which I am sure over the next few years will not be repeatable as the tourist bandwagon moves in. We visited Zambia’s remote western national parks; the people we met were friendly; the animals we encountered were not. This year once again we travelled with Kenneth “Barefoot” Smith of barefoot safaris and Nathan and Amanda the rains gave Ken ample opportunity to demonstrate his driving skills. Not only was getting around a challenge, so was the photography. The animals unlike those in other national parks in Africa still maintain their safety zones.

We had the world’s second largest national park Kafue to ourselves. A fact which an old bull Elephant wasn’t too pleased about!! He charged us

After 3 days we travelled west to Mongu and the first of the many rainy days, here we found an African rest house for the night and the best bread I have ever eaten. The next day we headed further west across the Barotseland plain heading for the pontoon crossing the mighty Zambezi. The first of six crossings of this great river we were to make.

At Liuwa Plains we saw the second largest migration in Africa. It was exhilarating to see thousands of Blue Wildebeest as we drove across the plain with no tree line visible at each point on the compass. The Lions are huge and not used to humans or vehicles which may explain why we were charged three times by a Lioness.

We then headed south to the impressive Ngonye falls on the Zambezi staying at the Sioma village community camp site. It was hot and humid which made the 1 Km walk to see the falls sweaty, however the views of this little visited falls made the discomfort worthwhile.

It was then only a short distance heading west again into Sioma Ngwezi National Park this is the true wilderness. There are no roads, not even vehicle tracks which is why it took most of the day to get there. Many of the Animals had dispersed because of the rains; although there was plenty of evidence of recent habitation. It therefore came as a surprise when we encountered 4 wild dogs out hunting.

Leaving Sioma behind the race was then on to make the Kazungula ferry across the Zambezi into Botswana. We stayed in Chobe National Park the 2 night stay in a lodge in Kasane was most welcome after so many days in the bush. The photography is so much easier as the animals are so used to vehicles. After the lodge we set off for the wild again camping within the park at Ihaha. Some may think us mad!! But we went for picnic lunch in Savuti. The trip back to Ihaha was made interesting by 2 bull Elephants. The first charged us but soon gave up. A short while later we spent an hour playing cat and mouse with the other Bull.

Leaving Botswana behind, we once again crossed the Kazungula ferry back into Zambia heading for Livingstone and Victoria Falls for 2 days relaxation!!!! The helicopter flight over the falls and down into Zambezi gorge is fantastic. For the adventurous so is the White Water Rafting I can certainly vouch for Safpar’s CPR and rescue organisation!!!

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